Adjustable pattern for drafting garments



-(Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

S. BISHE, now S.-BISOEGLIA. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOB DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 447,932. Patented Mar. 10, 1891.

351 Mathew 1 21 4;- 0

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(Model.)

s.. BISHE, now 3. BISGEGLIA. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

No. 447,932.. Patented Mai. 10, 1891. V

- UNITED STATES ATENT Fr es.

SALVATORE BISHE, NO\V SALVATCRE BISCEGLIA, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 447,932, dated March I0, 1891. Application filed October 14,1889. Serial No. 327,046. (ModeL) To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, SALVATORE BIsHE, now SALVATORE BISCEGLIA, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Adjustable Patterns or Charts for Drafting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

The object of this invention is to provide an improved pattern for cutting garments to fit the human figure, such patterns being adapted to be applied on the person, and being made in sections corresponding to the several parts of the garment, such sections being each composed of divisions connected together adjustably, so that each such section may be, as it were, expanded to correspond to the size of the person being fitted, and in such expanded condition may serve when removed from the person as a pattern by which the parts respectively of the garmentmay be outlined and cut.

In the drawings, Figure 1 represents a front section, Fig. 2 a side section, and Fig. 3 a back section, of the pattern involving my invention of the body of a frock-coak, the several sections being shown with their divisions adjusted to produce the minimum size for which the pattern is adapted. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 show the same sections, respectively, when the divisions of each are separated and the pattern thereby expanded. Figs. 7 and 8 are, respectively, a side elevation and a detail plan of one of the extension-plates I), being the mechanical means by which the divisions respectively of the sections are connected and adapted to be adj ustably held together.

a arepresent the adjustable parts of the divisions of the sections, respectively, of the pattern.

b I) represent the extension-plates or means of adjust-ably connecting the sections a.

e 6 represent clamps or fasteners.

d d represent the pivot-joints by which some of the extension-plates are connected at one end with one of the two sections which they unite.

y'y representcertain transverse rods, which are secured upon certain of the sections parallel to one edge and afford means of connecting one end of an extension-plate in such manner that that end may be moved longion the person.

tudinally on the rod and with respect to the adjacent edge of the division upon which such rod is secured.

e 6 represent hooks by which the different sections may be connected together around the body of the person who is being fitted, and e e represent the eyes or clasps corresponding to and adapted to receive the hooks c.

a; 00 represent holes in the perforated extension-plates, which are provided as a means of securing them in adjusted position, as desired, spring-catches 0 being provided on one of the divisions united by the extension-plate adapted to enter such perforations when the divisions are adjusted in proper position, and so to retain them as thus adjusted.

The numerals 1 2 3 4 5, &c., on the extension-plate, as seen in Fig. 8, indicating the several perforations 0c, denote sizes or the degree of separation between the adjacent di visions connected by the extension-plate, so that by recording the numerals at which the catches c engage the pattern can be at any time reset to the size to which it is extended lhe form'of fastener which I refer to as a spring-catch, and which is seen in Fig. 8, has the thumb-piece c. The engaging point or tooth c is pivoted at c on a suitable lip 0 andis provided with a spring 0 to cause its tooth to react against the thumb-piece.

I do not limit myself to this specific form of fastener, any spring-catch to engage the perforations in the extension-pieces being adequate for the purpose.

It will be observed that the construction is such that the several divisions of the sectio'ns, respectively, do not in any case overlap, but constitute the minimum pattern when they are placed edge to edge, and that the maximum pattern is produced by adjusting them apart and securing them as adjusted by the extension-plates, and that in order to avoid overlapping adjacent sections when adjusting them to less than the maximum pattern even those divisions whose marginal edges constitute part of the outline of the pattern are adjusted apart, leaving intervals in the outline when the pattern is greater than the minimum. In such cases, however, the outline is readily supplied by observing the direction and character of line of the marginal edge of the divisions, thus separated and continuing the same across the interval between them, and in such case the connecting-bars are designedly so located that they do not either supply or interrupt the pattern-outline at the intervals between the separated consecutive divisions.

An especial advantage of thus avoiding lapping of adjacent divisions upon each other is that thereby it becomes possible to use for the pattern material thick enough to constitute an effective edge to guide the chalk or pencil in tracing the outline on'the goods to be out. If the construction required consecutive sections to lap upon each other while adjustingthe pattern to thebody, and if the material were of desired thickness for the purpose last mentioned, the measurement obtained by thus adjusting the pattern on the body would be inaccurate to the extent that the underlapping portion of such thick pattern would cause the measurement to be too great and the fit of the garment to be inaccurate, and this deleterious efi'ect would be greatestbecause the underlapped portion of the patterns would be greatest-in applying the pattern to small persons, and in these identical instances the misfit would be most marked, because the ratio of the excessive measurement to the true measurement would be greater in proportion as the latter were less. It is therefore necessary either to sacrifice the advantage of a thick pattern to give a reliable guiding edge for the chalk or to avoid the lapping of the divisions in adjusting the pattern, and by my construction I attain, therefore, both the advantage of an accurate fit and'a convenient pattern to mark by.

In order to avoid the disadvantage of having the extension-pieces either outside the pattern, where they are liable to be caught and bent by the hand or dress of the operafor While adjusting, or inside, where they will be liable to be caught upon the clothing of the person being fitted while the parts of the pattern are being adjusted to his body, I prefer to make the divisions of the pattern of two thicknesses of leather suitably secured together, but so that the extension-bars may .enter them at the edge and slide thus between them as the divisions are adjusted, being guarded on both sides by the material of the said divisions. I am also by this means able to get a more flexible pattern of the desired thickness than could be obtained by using single sheets of leather of double thickness.

By means of the pivot-joints cl d certain parts of the model or pattern are held in position at a fixed point, but allowed to turn freely upon the joint thus made in order to assume the proper position with respect to the adjusted divisions as the pattern is adj usted.

WVhat I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

In an adjustable pattern, in combination, substantially as set forth, independent sections having their corresponding edges facing each other, and the bars which connect adjacent sections connected to and projecting from the edge of one section and entering the edge of the adjacent section and sliding therein, such bars having a longitudinal series of apertures and a spring-catch pivoted on the section in which the bar slides, having a tooth which projects through the plane of the section to enter such apertures of the bar and having a suitable thumb-piece by which it may be disengaged from the bar, substantially as set forth.

SALVATORE BISI'IE. Witnesses:

Louis SPIZZIRRI, OSCAR DURANTE. 

